I am consisdering replacing the main sail on my IP380. I am wondering if it is time to upgrade from Dacron to some of the new high tech laminate/composite materials. Does anyone have any experience replacing an in-mast furling main with with anything other than cross cut Dacron? I am currently talking to Quantum and Ullman. Any other suggestions?
Lou - I believe that if you're going to be off shore for any extended period of time, more than 24 hours, you should not carry your dinghy on the davits. In the five days it took us to return from Bermuda we had one full day of bad weather with 15' to 20' seas. Had several instances of waves breaking over the bimini. A dinghy on the davits would have been a disaster but with ours secured deflated on deck we came through with no damage. Once you're in the BVI you would be safe to carry it on the davits for short runs between islands.
La Vida Dulce
We have a much smaller boat (350) and this is a concern for us as we are going to BVI with ARC 1500. With the engine off the dinghy, I'm pretty sure the davits will handle the 100 pound weight if properly secured. Pretty sure is not where I'd like to be at this point, but have discussed this with some very experienced WCC people and they have raised my confidence level. Have you talked to the davit supplier?
Does anyone know the 'average' hull thickness of an IP445 below the waterline? How consistent is this?
It's been a long time since you posted this question but if you're still looking we have these:
they are brilliant! Very clean look and easy to put up and maintain.
We just had all of our cushions re-done after purchasing the boat in May. A local canvas shop did the work, Sunbrella fabric, new foam on the bottoms (the back were fine) and new foam in the berths $4,200
Thanks. Clever work-around. Our water tank is Fiberglas.
I am concerned about adding bleach to an aluminum water tank. I did that when I first bought my IP 35 and found that the water filters became clogged with flakes from the chlorine reacting with the aluminum. In fact I filter all water going into my tank and have added a Seagull water filter for drinking water as it comes out of the tank. I occasionally get a smell in my lines but my feeling is that it is in the lines and in the water heater. My solution was to install a "3 Way Ball Valve" in the line pulling water from the tank. In the normal position it pulls water from the tank. In the switched position it pulls from a line that has a 4' length of tubing attached. Switched to this position I can draw a bleach solution (or non toxic antifreeze) through all of the lines and let it sit overnight before flushing the lines clean again with water from the tank. This cleans the lines without affecting the tank.
When we purchased our 2004 IP 370 in 2008 the surveyor detected water stains in a storage compartment (port side, main cabin). The seller's broker cleaned up and re-bedded a life line stanchion and the problem appeared fixed. 2-3 years later we discovered wet books, etc. in the vicinity of the earlier leak. I detached, cleaned up, and re-bedded the same life line stanchion. We have had no problems since in that area.
This year we have a leak in the aft compartment. After a heavy rain (not a moderate or light one), water accumulates on the wood shelf that runs aft of the locker/nav station. We can reach up and feel water above the lip in the area of the hull-deck joint. There is no water in the "lip" above the nav station or forward of the nav station. We think this means we are fortunate in that the leak appears to originate in the aft port quarter of the boat. Is that a logical conclusion?
In order of priority, what are the likeliest sources? I assume the lifeline stanchions are candidate number one. We plan to run water starting as far aft as possible and then move forward until there is evidence of the leak inside.
Over the years I have had problems with the electric shut off button for the Yanmar 3HM35F. The problem has been that at times it works (usually when the engine has not been running long) and at other times it does not (when the engine has been running for more than an hour). When this happens the fix has been to clean the ground wire connections on the shut down solenoid. I recently went as far as to replace both of the terminal connectors on the ground wire. This time the problem has not been solved. My next move would be to replace the connection for the hot side and on the control panel. Since it does work sometimes, I don't believe that I need to replace my solenoid. Any other thoughts out there? Anyone else have a similar problem? It seems odd that it is only a problem when the engine has been running a while.
A year ago we used two gallons of chlorine to shock our 160-gallon IP 370 water tank and lines. It worked OK but we still have an off-taste/smell in the head sink and shower.
I followed these steps:
1. Emptied tank/lines.
2. Put an estimated 10 gallons of water into tank. Added two gallons of bleach.
3. Filled tank.
4. Let it sit for about 6 hours.
5. Opened galley and head sink taps and emptied system.
6. Repeated steps 4 and 6 until chlorine smell was gone.
One error, I think, was failure to run some water through the lines after step 3 so that lines would be full of chlorinated water. Also, I don't think I opened shower head when I was emptying the system.
I am in the market for 1987 or later IP27 located on the US East Coast. Any recommendations?
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